Wednesday May 8, 2019

Arriving at Montserrat

We have breakfast right at 0800. Yesterday, we bought tickets for the train and rack railway that goes to Montserrat, a mountaintop monastery about an hour from Barcelona. The train we plan on leaves at 0936 and we have a 1.2 mile walk to Placa Espanya where it leaves from. Somehow, yesterday, I let the lady at the station talk me into a different combo ticket than the one I had planned on. That was supposed to include train, rack railway, round trip funicular at the monastery, and metro tickets to Placa Espanya. She kept telling me that one of the funiculars was not running and this ticket was 10 Euros cheaper. She selected it in the machine and I gave in and bought them. We will see how it works. We board the train with many other tourists and find some seats. The lady sitting across from us sees the ozark label on Carols day pack and asks if we are from Arkansas. This starts a conversation with her and her husband. The trip goes fast with pleasant conversation with Ed and his wife. Ed was a traveling pharmacist and then worked at CVS. They are retired in Clayton Georgia as I psychically surmised by the Clayton Georgia hat he had on. Carol says we had made friends with people from North Carolina, from Raleigh and then I remember Lonnie and Nancy who we hiked the PCT with in 2014 lived in North Carolina also. It took me a minute to remember that they lived in Franklin which it turns out is very close to Clayton. In fact, I am pretty sure we drove through Clayton when we visited them. Very small world. It really made the trip go fast and we say goodbye as we exit for the rack railway. We get seats on it and then in walks Ed, his wife, and the couple they are traveling with. So we get another 15 minutes of pleasant conversation before going our separate ways at the top. We hope we may see them again in our travels.

The Monastery

Carol and I head up toward the basilica. We see a line for the La Moreneta, a wood statue of the Black Virgin discovered in the sacred cave in the 12th century. Legend says that the statue was carved by St Luke, brought to Spain by St Peter and hidden in the cave during the moorish invasion.

Wooden Black Madonna

The right hand of the Madonna holds a sphere which pilgrims rub while opening their other hand to God.The line we are in is not too long but the chapel is closed until noon, about another 20 minutes. We decide it is better to wait now than after the chapel opens and the line gets longer. They open the doors around 1150 and the line moves inside. While waiting in line in the side chapel , a mass starts inside the basilica. It looks like the bishop is here for this mass.We reach the Madonna, do our pilgrimage touch, which never can hurt, and exit into an exterior corridor with candles to light in prayer for loved ones.

Monastery View

We are now going on a pilgrimage on our won which involves taking the St. Joan funicular up into the surrounding mountains. There are quite a few trails at the top and we choose to start out hiking to the Saint Joan Chapel. It is not a bad walk and the scenery is beautiful.

St Joan Chapel

Reaching the chapel, we sit nearby and have a sandwich lunch. Above us are some more ruins, so we decide to climb further into the hills. We skirt the edge of a cliff and hike upward as the terrain gets steeper. There are a few more remains of chapels here and we see a stone cross on a hill high above.

Reminds Us of Yosemite

We follow a path thinking it might lead to the cross. It does not, but it does lead to a high vantage point to see the surroundings. The surrounding area reminds me of Yosemite with its rock formations. We enjoy our time in the mountains and then head back down towards the funicular.

CNC Montserrat

We do not get on, instead continuing on another path that will wind its way back to the monastery. We go up at first than down and around several bends. It gets really steep in one spot, causing us to do the lean back to stay semi vertical. It said 40 minutes to the monastery and we are proud to do it in 30. Time for a bathroom break, then catch the 1515 rack railway and the train back to Barcelona. It has turned out to be a nice day, much better than the forecast and we got some good exercise in. That just means we can choose to eat a decent meal tonight.

Hanging Out at Chambaku

After returning, we decide to try Chambaku, a restaurant around the corner from us. They have nachos, appetizers, and sandwiches. The owner, Nina is very nice and speaks very good English. This makes it hard for Carol to understand her.

Pork Nachos

We order pulled pork nachos to start and have some nice red house wine. The pour is very generous. The nachos ar very good and then we order two different sandwiches, a chubby chicken with chimichurro sauce and a grilled chicken with another sauce. Everything is made fresh so we have to order another glass of wine while wait.

Too Much Wine??

There is a soccer game on but we learn that Barcelona lost in the semi finals yesterday to London. Tonight’s game features Amsterdam and Tottenheim, a British team. On cue, a Brit walks in and orders two large beers. We ask him if he is thirsty and double drinking but he is waiting for his mate. His mate shows up and we joke with them saying good thing he did, we were about to drink his beer. We talk soccer, American football, baseball, and travel with them. It got a bit late so we said our goodbyes and returned to the hotel. Tomorrow, we will have a nice relaxing day to end our stay here.

Expenses
Hostal Aslyp 114 105.68E
Round Trip Train and Cog Railway to Montserrat 43E Debit
Funicular at Montserrat 17.50E
Lemon Ice and shampoo from Bonpreu. 3.08E Cash
Dinner at Chambaku 40.30E
Walked 7.5 Miles