Sunday April 14, 2019

Up to Toledo

We are out the door at 0800 for our walk to Avila Train Station. I think I fixed my gyroscope as we find our way without any guidance errors. We get to the station at 0820 for our 0840 train. Today’s journey involves this train to Madrid Chamartin Station, than a local train to Madrid Puerta Atocha Station and then the connection to Toledo from there. It sounds complicated but we hope it is straightforward. We have an hour and nine minutes from arrival at Chamartin to our Departure from Atocha.

CNC Toledo

The first leg of the journey is an hour and a half. The terrain changes from farmland and rolling hills to pine forests and more rugged areas. It is a scenic journey. We pass El Escorial a very large monastery that we will visit on a day trip from Madrid. We arrive in Chamartin Station, where we basically started five days ago. We go to the ticket booth because we get free local train tickets included with our long distance ticket but you have to pick up the ticket. That done and having asked what platform to go to, we get to platform two and our train is arriving in 1 minute. Smooth transfer and 15 minutes later we are in Atocha station.

Alcazar View

We have 40 minutes until our departure but this station is much larger and more confusing than Chamartin with trains departing on two levels. We think that our train leaves from planta uno (1st level) and decide to wait in the security line there. When we get to the front of the line, I ask the man if the train to Toledo leaves from her and he says no, down one level. We go back down to Planta Baja ( ground level) and wait for our track number to show on the departure board. With 15 minutes to go, it does, and shows track (via) 13. We follow signs that point to the right for tracks 13-15 and end up outside.

So Happy

This can’t be right so we turn around and look for a train person. I do not see one but there is a security looking guy so I go ask him. He obviously doesn’t speak English and I comically say donde Es via and can’t remember 13 so have to recite diez, once, doce, ah trece…via trece, to which he replies si, Toledo, and points the other way from the signs. We go that way, get on line for security, ask the security guy who waves us on and get to track 13 with 10 minutes to go. We have our tickets scanned, get on board and give a sigh of relief. A thirty minute ride later and we arrive at Toledo. Pay no attention to the cop with the automatic weapon. Just walk calmly to the station. Good thing I fixed my internal compass in Avila as we exit the station and by memory, make the correct turn toward the Puerta Alcantra gate into the hilltop city.

Puente Altancara

We cross an ancient bridge over a river where people are fishing on this Sunday almost afternoon. Then through the old obviously moorish gate and up, up, up a long flight of stairs. We catch our breath and a view back down to the bridge. Then we climb up again, this time a steep set of streets, until we pass through another arch and into Plaza Zodocover.

Tower Near Hotel

We follow a main tourist drag to the cathedral and then find our street to Hotel Santa Isabel which is coincidentally on Calle (street) Santa Isabel. We are two hours early for check in but the friendly desk clerk, radios the maid and then tells us our room is ready. Very nice for us. We are on the first floor, which in Spain and most of Europe is the second floor. The ground floor is floor zero. Our room is very nice with old wooden doors leading to a small balcony and another set leading to an even smaller one. It is clean and very nice and as an added bonus, I was able to get free breakfast here by booking on the hotels website, instead of Booking.com. We also picked up a hornaza ( pork cutlet with jamon) sandwich on the way here and have it for lunch before heading out. Even after getting directions from the desk clerk to our first stop, we get misplaced again, and have to stop and study our map. The streets here are crazy curving every which way, changing names in an instant, and keep you on your toes.

St Peters Tears by El Greco

I mostly figure out a general direction, think we are close, and ask a bus driver where the El Greco Museum is and he points around the corner. Problem solved. El Greco, was a Greek painter with a very Greek name that the Spanish could not pronounce, so he just became known as the Greek. He tried to get a job painting at El Escorial but did not so he came to Toledo and made it his home. He became famous here with his distinct artistic style and did many works for the church. We will see his more famous works in the cathedral, the Santa Cruz Museum, and the Prado in Madrid. We started here because it is free on Sundays, so why not. There is information about El Grecos life and several noteworthy paintings which give us an idea of his style. We enjoy the visit and then proceed to the nearby Sephardic Museum, which is also free on Sunday’s.

Sephardic Museum

The Sephardic museum tells the history of the Sephardic Jewish community in Toledo and is located in a 14th century synagogue. Like many of the buildings in Southern Spain, it has a moorish influence in it. The Moors and the Jews had similar beliefs in not displaying humanistic forms in their mosques and temples and this is evident here. The coats of arms of three faiths, Jew, Moors, and Catholics are displayed here.

CNC Reyes Monastery

We exit the museum and decide what to do next. We had originally planned to do the cathedral today, but we are tired and know it will be a long visit for us. We decide to switch things up and head to the San Juan de los Reyes Monastery. It is a Franciscan Monastery and Church and was built to celebrate the 1476 Battle of Toro which made Isabel the Queen of Castile. Together with her husband, the King of Aragon, this victory united all of Spain and gave them the power to finish the expulsion of the Moors.

Monkey on Toilet.

There is a great mix of stone carvings in the cloister. I spot one that intrigues me as it sure looks like a monkey taking a crap. I love the ancient oddity. An interesting detail of the Church itself are the 500 year old chains used in the facade. The Moors used these to shackle Christians in Granada. It is said that in 1492 when Granada was reconquered, the freed Christians brought these chains here as a symbol of their faith and victory.

Man Eats Manchego

We now proceed to another unplanned stop for today, the Queso Manchego Museum. Just a very small museum, we learn about the making of Manchego Cheese, which we happen to love. The best part is they serve you a sample platter with a glass of wine for 4 Euros. The girl speaks English and when we tell her we have had Manchego in the USA, she comes back and shows us what to look for, on the cheeses to ensure it is true Manchego from the region and not imitation from elsewhere. Very proud of their artisanal heritage. We enjoy our sample and buy a bottle of wine and a hunk of Manchego at much cheaper than USA prices to take back to our room. We do this as the hotel has a roof top terrace and we plan on enjoying some wine and cheese later tonight.

Our Tapas Sampler

We find a place an Italian type place that has early dinners so we go there. We get a tapa sampler platter, with venison ravioli, mini venison and mushroom burritos, salmon tartar with tomato and arugula, gnocchi, and croquettes. We also order a salad as we have been deprived of greens. For a different drink, we order two Sangrias. The Samgrias are really good and we enjoy everything except maybe the gnocchi. Not what we are used to, it is mostly just potato very soft, like mashed rolled up.

Panoramic Night

The good part is we are back in our hotel by 2000. We even ran into another procession on our way back to the hotel. We gather up our stuff and go to the rooftop terrace to enjoy some wine and cheese. We have a great view of the Cathedral, surrounding churches and the Alcazar. As dusk arrives, we are accompanied by swallows, and then bats, flying around eating whatever bugs there might be. As it get s darkest the lit up Cathedral and surroundings makes for a fantastic have view and setting for our little late happy hour. It has been a very good first day in Toledo. We are really liking the vibe here. 

Expenses
Train from Avila to Toledo 39.60E
Hotel San Isabel 53E incl. Breakfast
Pork Cutlet Sandwich 3.95E
El Greco Museum Free Sunday
Transitory Synagogue Free Sunday
Manchego Museum + wine and cheese to go 29.23E
Dinner at Comes 29.6E
Wine and Chees on our rooftop patio. priceless
Walked 6 miles.