Thursday April 11, 2019

Waiting for Our Train

It is a bit of a struggle to wake up this morning. We have to catch an 0800 bus to the train station even though our train does not leave until 0923. These late Spanish dinners make it hard for us to get to bed at our preferred time of around 2200 (10PM). We did not even get back until 2230 and then had to pack up. We are up at 0700 and out the door at 0730. It is a foggy morning from all the moisture in the air. We pass under the shrouded aqueduct and get to the bus stop at 0740. It is also only about 34 degrees, so we are glad when the bus arrives 12 minutes early and let’s us into the heated space. It leaves promptly at 0800.

Snow Capped Mountains

We arrive at the train station fifteen minutes later and go inside the coffee shop there where Carol gets a Spanish coffee. I think she is getting addicted to it after only two days. We also eat the pastries we bought yesterday. Carols is apple filled while mine is jamon y queso. Our hour wait goes fast and we go through security and wait a few more minutes inside as the tracks are visible and the train is not here yet. The fog is starting to lift and the surrounding mountains are covered in snow. We see the train coming and head down to the platform. Our two trains so far have been fast ones called AVE or AVANT, and they are all reserved coaches and seats. They seem to be pretty punctual and the ride is very smooth. Today’s hour ride passes through pastoral farmland dotted with a few small towns.

It’s All Here

We arrive in Salamanca on time and walk just under a mile to our IBIS Hotel. Our room is ready so no baggage check is needed. IBIS is a well known discount hotel chain in Europe. Our room is decent size but their bathrooms remind us of being on a cruise ship. The bed is a true queen which makes us happy. After settling in, we formulate a plan for the afternoon and head out to explore Salamanca.

Jamon Bocadillo

First up, we head to a restaurant that we want to go to tomorrow night. It supposedly fills up so we make a reservation for 2000 when they open for dinner. I accomplish that in Espanol and we head towards Plaza Mayor for lunch. There is a sandwich shop I had read about called Viandas de Salamanca with the family farm going back to 1366. I get a jamon bocadillo (sandwich) and Carol gets a jamon y queso bocadillo. We also get some mini sausages typical of the region. We cross the street, find a bench, and people watch as we eat. The bocadillos are great. We try the mini sausages and they are good also with a taste that reminds me of acorns, definitely a little nutty flavor in them.

New and Old Cathedral

Our lunch needs satisfied, we walk to the New and Old Cathedral of Salamanca. The old cathedral is 12th century Romanesque, while the new cathedral is a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque. The new was built over 220 years from 1513 to 1733. I am not sure I would still call it new. Our admission comes with an English audioguide which explains all the side chapels in the new cathedral.

The Sacred Pelican

It also talks about the dome and the choir, as well as something I knew nothing about, the Sacred Pelican. The main altar of the old cathedral is comprised of 53 scenes and a bejeweled golden and bronze Madonna. There is also a side chapel with an old fresco, an old organ, and carved arched niches. I tend to like the old better but it is all beautiful. One thing for sure is that these old building do not hold heat. We are freezing when we exit back into the sunshine and sit to warm up before moving on.

Cars de las Conchas

We meander the streets of Salamanca and pass the Casa de las Conchas, House of the Shells, whose facade is self explanatory. We pass by some other old churches, but they are closed due to siesta time. We walk through Plaza Mayor on the way back to our hotel. We are very tired and not quite caught up on our sleep so we take a lead from the Spanish and have a siesta of our own. Several hours later, we arise and slowly get ready for dinner. What a life!

Hummus

Tonight, we have chosen to be different and eat at Salam, a Middle Eastern restaurant with a modern twist. They open for dinner at 2030 and we arrive a few minutes early. We ask for a table for two and she asks if we have a reservation. We don’t but she checks with someone and they are able to seat us. An hour later, they are turning people away. We start with a free tapa which we like that is possibly some kind of foes gras or pate served with tortilla chips. Next is a phenomenal hummus and a soup with large beans and clams which is full of flavor.

Chicken and Cous Cous

Our main courses are a mousaka and a chicken with carmelized onions over cous cous. Both are super tasty. The mousaka with a bechamel sauce topping is very rich and creamy. We enjoy a bottle of the house red, a Tempranillo, with our meal. For dessert, we have a flan with white chocolate and caramel and a curry cake which was also excellent.

Spanish Cafe con Leche

Next our Spanish coffee con leche. The Spanish coffee is very very good but we are learning that they do not serve it with dessert but rather after you finish your dessert. Don’t worry, we are adapting just fine. By the time we finish our meal and get back to,the hotel, it is almost 2300. We try using messenger to call our moms but neither answer. My brother does not answer either but then calls us back. We do reach my mom afterwards but no success on Carols mom. It is definitely time for bed. Hasta manana.

Expenses
Bus to Train 4E
Train to Salamanca 19.2E
Ibis Salamanca 50.35E
Bocadillos for Lunch from Viandas de Salamanca 12E
New and Old Cathedral 12E
Pastries for tomorrow’s breakfast 1.65E
Dinner at Salam 37E

Walked 7 Miles