Sunday July 30, 2017

Our Ferry to Newfoundland

Sleep last night was intermittent for me due to some of the loudest snorers I have ever heard. I was awoken by it at around 2 A.M. and decided to take a short walk. Actually went outside for a brief time but it was quite brisk and that drove me back inside. I went back to my recliner lounger and tried again to doze off. Eventually, I went back into slumber land and did not wake up until they announced that we had one hour left to port. I cannot figure out why this announcement is necessary at 0600 in the morning when they know most everybody is trying to sleep. This announcement just prompted a rude French Canadian lady to talk loudly to her husband thus preventing a return to la la land. Thirty minutes notice is plenty as they do not let you go back to your car until they have safely docked. Overall, I slept better than I thought I would. Carol of course just slept through the night without any problems. They announced it was time for us to go to our cars and 15 minutes later we were driving onto Newfoundland soil. A quick stop at the Port Aux Basques Information Center for a map and we were on our way to Gros Morne National Park. It is a 4 hour drive and the scenery is plentiful.

First Stop in Newfoundland

We both can’t believe that we are in Newfoundland. I had an article on Gros Morne that I saved over 25 years ago so I guess this has been on my list for a while. We reach the edge of the park and the scenery becomes even better than the last four hours. It is a mix of sea, rocky coast, and wooded mountains. The only disappointment is that we have been here for 4 hours and have not seen a moose. In fact, we have not seen one moose since entering Canada which really surprises me.

Hiking Gros Morne

We drive past the town of Rocky harbor where we will be staying and stop at the Western Brook Pond Trail Head. The parking lot is overflowing but this is mostly because there is a boat tour at the pond. What they call a pond here is really a lake and Western Brook is large enough for a boat tour along a small fjord. We have opted not to do the tour as we sailed through the immense fjords of Norway and feel that this could not compare. We do want to walk the trail down to the pond and that is what we are here to do. It is a fairly easy walk with a wide path and boardwalks that guide you through the marshy and wet areas. We get a view of the Cliffs and Plateaus that jut above the pond. The terrain is very different than what we have seen with small lakes, slow streams and peat marsh. There are beautiful wild iris’s along the way and the water is stained the color of tea as it filters through the peat. The plants are low growing shrubs and small trees that are windswept and not much over 4 feet tall.

Bake Apple Berries

We come to a junction where we can loop around to the pond and take the left turn into the woods. There is an immediate 10 degree reduction in temperature as we get out of the sun. We see many flowers along the way and come across some bakeapple berries that we read about. At least we think that is what they are as I pop one into my mouth. A couple from Holland ask us if they are safe to eat and I say “I think so but I wouldn’t eat a lot of them” I was still alive hours later so I guess they were OK. The taste was sweet with a bit of tartness to it. As we hike along, there is a rustle in the foliage on the side of the trail and we see a big toad seeking cover. I manage to get a picture before it scares off.

Western Brook Pond

We then emerge where Western Brook Pond feeds Western Brook. It is a nice spot for a short break before we continue to the pond itself and the boat dock. We snap some nice shots and sit for a while enjoying the view. The afternoon has turned out beautiful, mostly sunny, slight breeze and a temperature of about 67 degrees. We could not be happier at the moment. We do the return hike nonstop and get back to the RAV at 3:15. A short drive down the road and we get out to see the wreck of the S.S Ethie. There isn’t much left in the surf and some parts of the engine and smokestack lie on the beach. No information is here about when this ship sank or why. We will have to wonder until we can look it up.

Lobster Head Light House

Leaving the wreck, we take another turn off the main road to Lobster Head Lighthouse. We arrive just before a tour is starting so our timing is good. It is interesting to learn about the Young family that manned the light for two generations. There is also a nice view of the town of Rocky Harbour across the cove. Our sightseeing done for the day we drive into town and stop for dinner at the Bannikin Food Truck. Fish and Chips is on order and the portion is very large. There are enough fries or four people in each order.

Great Spot

The cod (first time we have had fish other than haddock) is cooked perfectly and the light coating is not greasy. They sure know how to do fish and chips up here regardless of the type of fish used. It is hard to describe how different it is compared to the usual American version. We can also taste the difference that using fresh fish makes. We eat on a picnic table overlooking the water on a picture perfect evening. After dinner, we check into our small hotel and settle in for the night. Our Newfoundland introduction has been a success.

Expenses                                                                                                                                       Fish and Chips Dinner 27.50 CAD                                                                                           Gas 44.01 CAD                                                                                                                         Block of Ice 2.50 CAD                                                                                                        Parsons Motel 103.50 CAD                                                                                                           5 Miles Hiked