Finding My Roots

We wake up a bit early today as we have to catch a 0900 bus. We have another incredible breakfast at 0730. Federica promptly gives us some aluminum foil to wrap up and take the many leftovers. These people are just wonderful. Then at 0825, after helping other guests with breakfast, she drives us down to,the bus station. I buy the bus tickets without a hitch and our bus is there so everything is good. When I looked this up on line a few days back, it warned of a possible strike. I showed this to Federica the other day and she called them and they said no problem. It is looking like that is the case.
I am excited about today. We are going to Trapani, the town where my nana grew up and started her journey to America.

On the Bus to Trapani

Getting on the bus is one step closer to touching my heritage from the past. The ride is about three and a half hours as we drive along the southern coast of Sicily before turning North towards Trapani. We arrive pretty much on time and then the hunt for our new home begins. We locate the first street that we need and then turn on what should be the next one. Street signs disappear in this area. Most of the time, at the corners you can see the name of the streets on the buildings, but it seems that they may have been removed here. We find another main street that is marked and then guess on where to turn off of it. We wander along a few backstreet alleys and then guess again as to whether we are on the right block and just start watching address numbers. Then, there it is number 18 and a sign for San Pietro Vacanze. We ring the bell and Michele opens the door and greets us. He is very nice and tells us the room is not ready but we can leave our bags there and it should be clean in about 45 minutes. We are early so tell him it is no problem and to take his time we will explore, have a bite to eat, and then return. I need to mention that his English is very good so that just makes things easier. He lived in America for two years and I tell him that my roots are here so it is a special place in my heart.
After being given a map and shown where the historical center is, we head out to get a feel for where my ancestors lived. The old town is literally outside our door step and we find ourselves on the main drag in no time.

Friendly Server

A place advertising street food is full of Italians so that is a sign that we should check it out. We order a Panelle panino and an arrancini as well as a beer and water. Sets us back 6 Euros. Panelle is a local food that is made from chickpea flour and then fried in triangle shapes, put in a bun with a little salt, pepper, and lime. It is excellent and so is the arrancini with meat sauce. Having taken care of our hunger, we walk a few blocks and come to the sea. It is quite breezy today and the waves are crashing as we just absorb the surroundings. We figure our room should be ready now, so we go back to the apartment. Michele is very nice telling us about places to eat, what is around, etc. Then he takes us up to our room.

What a Smile

We had booked a studio apartment, but he has decided to upgrade us, his decision, he says.
We now have a four room apartment and Carol is really happy. She is not happy because of the rooms but because there is a washing machine. Four days of no hand washing.
It is only about 1430 and even though it is very windy out, I want to walk around and get a feel for the town my nana came from. We wander a bit and then walk along the sea wall. The waves are crashing against the rocks and walls. Looks more like an ocean than a sea. We check out a couple of restaurant menus along the way and one on our list appeals to us. It has cous cous con Pesce. My nana used to make a dish called cuscusu. No other Italians I knew made this dish or even heard of it. She would spend all day cooking the fish and broth and steaming semolina over it. It was a big occasion when she made it and is a dish that is so very tasty, yet hard to describe. When I was researching Trapani, I discovered that they make it here. Not only that but it is the local specialty and is not made elsewhere in Sicily. It brings my roots and my Nana’s spirit closer to me. This restaurant is where hopefully I can try the dish again.
We continue walking past a rocky beach with some intrepid Italians braving the wind.

Crashing Waves

No one dares go in the rough sea but they are lying around. Then we come to the lighthouse tower at the end of the spit that this part of Trapani sits on. Since this is the older town, I feel that my grandmother probably lived somewhere in this area. The more modern part of Trapani extends away from the isthmus of land that we are on.
We take a different route back to our apartment and settle in for the afternoon.
Dinner time arrives and we head out wanting to arrive at the restaurant near their opening time. Often we manage to get a table if we show up this way. If you wait sometimes even a half hour after opening, you can not get a seat because of reservations. The main tourist season is over and we are not sure if seating is still a problem or not but I really want to eat at La Tramontana as it got really good reviews. We pass the Church of San Lorenzo along the way and since it is open we check it out. I say a prayer for my grandmother and my father hoping somehow that they are watching me and smiling.
We arrive at the restaurant and the outdoor area is protected from the wind by plastic and when we are seated, there is no one else in the place.

Fantastic Mussels

It is only 0715, too early for the locals. When we leave 2 hours later, it is full. We order mussel soup as an antipasto, a pasta dish with shrimp and pistachio pesto, and I order the cous cous con Pesce.
It is a family operation and I tell the guy that my grandmother was from Trapani and that she used to make cous cusu. The mussel soup arrives first and it is not a soup but mussels that were cooked in the broth and wine and garlic. This is what I expected and they are amazingly good. It just astounds me that when you eat the seafood so fresh how nothing has the fishy taste that it does in the U.S. Carol who is not a huge mussel fan, can not get enough of these. Good thing there were plenty.

Cous Cous di Pesce

The main courses arrive and the cous cous is in three parts. The cous cous is in a bowl, another bowl,has the broth and a plate has a whole fish. My nana would serve it the same except she would take the bones out of the fish before serving it. The waiter try’s to tell me how you are supposed to do it and I tell him I know how. I put some fish in with the cous cous and then add the broth which is an orange red color, just like my nana’s. Now for the real test, tasting it. Oh my, it is so good and just brings back amazing memories. My eyes get misty thinking about my nana and my father along with the rest of us eating this special meal. Now the hard part comes as I have to share it with Carol. She has never had it before (well kind of, we did try and make it once but it did not come out right) and can’t believe how good it is. I tell the waiter in my broken Italian that it is excellent and brings back good memories of my nana and i can feel her in my heart. Towards the end of the meal, he introduces us to some Americans, one of which grew up in Trapani, so they can translate a bit for us. I feel extremely happy and at peace in this moment. When we pay, I make reservations for tomorrow night as we both want to have it again. We say good night and stroll home walking the streets where my Italian American roots are and feeling satisfied on so many levels. I think I will sleep good tonight.
Expenses
Bus from Agrigento to Trapani 23.8E
Snack Food, Beer, water 6.5E
Wine, Beer, Water at Grocery Store 5.7E
Dinner and Wine at La Tramontana 35E
San Pietro Casa Vacanze 52E
Walked 6 Miles