The Sandwich Master

Siracusa was the most important Greek city and a competitor for Athens. At one time it’s wealth and size were unmatched by any other city in Europe. It was however ruled mostly by despots over its history.

Exterior of San Filippo

The island of Ortygia where we are staying was a formidable fortification with many bastions at strategic points around the island.
Today we are just going to take a relaxing stroll, maybe see some churches and the old castle fort. We start with the church that is right outside our door, San Filippo Apostolo. The sign outside says it was built in 1742. The inside is mostly white and the exterior is ancient looking. We always like to sit and spend a little time looking around in the old churches. They are all different in their own ways although the central theme is the same. When we leave, we head up a plant lined street as we head toward another church. The streets here all pretty much look like alleys but you must be on your toes as every once in a while a car will squeeze by you. Sidewalks are either about a foot or two wide or do not exist. The island was not built for modern machines but the locals manage to find a way to make it work. The next two churches are closed and then we walk along the sea to the Castello Maniace which was built by Frederick II in the 1200s.

New Ownership

It served as a royal residence, fortress, and storehouse over the years. The original structure was added onto until it filled the whole point of the island. There is a film which shows different fortification points around the island and the original gate into Ortygia. We stroll around the different areas such as the Spanish gateway, parade ground, antiquarium, and the Spanish walkway. It was a very nice little spot. When we leave, we head towards the Duomo square. Along the way we pass Fonte Arethusa, a spring that has been gushing here since Greek times. Then in the pIazza Duomo we go into the Church of Santa Lucia and then from there we decide to find a heaven of the food kind. I had read about a sandwich place that is rated # 1’on trip advisor and only open when the fish market is open until 1300. We want to check it out so forego going into the Duomo for some culinary adventure.

The Master at Work

What an adventure it is. We walk through the fish and vegetable market with Sicilians yelling out in melodic voices what they have for sale, or special, or who knows. It is pretty interesting. Then we find Caseificio Borderi. There is a line and we get in it. A man is handing out free samples of fresh mozzarella while we wait. He also gives out little cups with wine in them. Then he goes back to making sandwiches right in front of you. I watch as three locals order in front of me. Italian bread cut in half, hollowed out a bit by hand, then placed on a board. Fresh lemon is squeezed on the bread followed by olive oil. Then the show really begins. He slices peppers, eggplant,spinach, lettuce mix and fresh garlic and piles it on. Another taste of some fresh ricotta with lemon for everybody and back to the sandwich. Fresh mozzarella and another cheese topped with some pepperocini. Now he disappears into the deli to cut the meat. Back he comes with a large amount of prosciutto. He puts it on paper tops it with some more olive oil, herbs and smoked mozzarella. Then he rolls it up in the paper, unrolls and places the whole thing on top of the other waiting ingredients. Cut it in half and you have an incredible looking sandwich.

It’s Only Half

When he is done and I have to order I tell him due lo stesso, which is two of the same. This makes the locals smile and I say I follow your lead. We get the same treatment and passion in the making of our sandwiches. Of course we are given some more free samples, salami and smoked mozzarella. His daughter comes out and speaks to us in English and I tell her to tell him he is the master sandwich maker and that he has a lot of passion. She says I know, he is a strange man. Pretty funny. We get a fresh baked ricotta to go with our sandwiches and the bill is 5 Euros per sandwich and 5 for the ricotta. Carrying it back to our place, it feels like we have about 5 pounds of food.
Back in our room, we take the first bite and realize we have found sandwich nirvana. The absolute best sandwich we have ever had. We are probably ruined for life now unless we can find a way to wrap this guy up and bring him home. The baked ricotta had fresh garlic, olive oil, and herbs added to it before the wrap it up and it is incredible. We each only eat half a sandwich and 1/4 of the ricotta and are stuffed. One can not describe not only the taste sensation but the smell of all the fresh ingredients and herbs. Absolutely incredible.
Since we are done with our sightseeing, I decide to go out and see if I can get a much needed haircut. It is really hot as I check out the two places that the BNB told me about when I asked. My timing is not good as I brave the very hot mid afternoon sun only to find both barbers have closed up. The second one I go to says it will be open at 1430 in about 15 minutes so I decide to walk around a bit and wait. I go to the ATM and get some more cash, scratching that off my list, walk to the sea, back around the fish market which has closed but the sandwich master is still at it and there is shade there so I watch him work.

Sandwich Place

That gets me a few more free samples. I then walk to the barber shop and at 1435 it is still not open. I wait across the street in the shade for another 15 minutes before figuring that this is just another example of a Sicilian suggested time. Time to get back to the room as my face is melting off.
We hang out do some chores such as laundry and journaling, and at 1700 I decide to try my luck again with the barber. The first and closest one is open, an old barber, who when I try to tell him how short I want it, just waves his hand, basically saying, I know my job and will cut your hair as I think it should be. Anything will be an improvement on the out of control curly mess going on now so I relax and go for the Sicilian haircut journey. Scissors and then a straight edge are used on my hair and when it is all said and done it looks pretty good. A little longer than I wanted it on top but then the man has a very sharp straight edge so I say nothing. Ten euros which is not bad, especially since we looked at two places in Vienna and they wanted 30 for a haircut.
I go back to our place and we decide we will just stay in, drink wine and eat the rest of our sandwiches and cheese for dinner. It has been a very nice and easygoing day which is a good thing. Sicilian life is agreeing with us.
Castillo Maniace 4E
Lunch from Caseificio Borderi 15E
Haircut 10E
La Giudecca BNB 81E
Walked 6 Miles