Salt and Vodka

Our adventure for today is to tour the Wieliczka Salt Mine, which has been producing salt since the 11th century. First, we must take another train to get there. We are happy that our choice of apartments is so centrally located. We are only about a half mile from the train station and a mile or less to almost all the sights and interesting neighborhoods in town. Today’s train is much more modern and efficient, so of course it is only a twenty minute ride. We get off at the Rynek stop and walk the short distance to the mine. We are able to get spots on the 0900 tour that will leave in about 15 minutes. Time for a pee free break.
The entry to the mine involves 350 steps down a shaft. We descend 50 levels, seven steps at a time. Yes, the math works out.

Lots of Wood

The first thing we notice is how much wood they have used to build and support the many tunnels in the mine. Metal would rust in the humid environment. Where wood is not needed, we walk through tunnels all carved out of salt. The salt was mined as they dug and then the impurities were removed on the surface. There are white veins which are purer salt and was used by the royalty and rich back in the day. The less pure mostly grey salt was used by the rest. All the walls, ceilings, and even the floors are salt. You can touch and lick it if you dare, just try not to pick a spot where a thousand others have licked. Under Kazmierz the great, one third of Poland’s riches came from these mines. Salt was a valuable commodity and was used as currency in trade. My, how times have changed.
An interesting part of the tour is that over the years, miners have carved sculptures, chandeliers, and chapels out of the surrounding salt. We see a few of the sculptures along the way. We also learn how they mined the salt, and transported it out of the mine.

Horses Working the Winches

In the 1800s, they lowered horses into the mines and kept them there to work the many winches and pulleys lifting the salt to the surface. We pass elves carved out of the salt, see a salt stalagmite, and chandeliers made of salt in a small chapel. None of this prepares you for the grand finale. We enter the Chapel of St Kinga, carved over a 30 year period in the early 1900s. The room is large with a high ceiling with salt chandeliers. The altar is beautiful and there is a salt relief carving of the last supper. The floor tiles are not tile at all, just more salt, carved to look like floor tile. It is really an incredible space.

St Kinga Chapel Alter

It is about 440 feet below the surface at this point.
The tour ends shortly after this room and we now are stuffed 8 at a time into a skinny elevator for the ride back to the top. It was a very nice tour and worth the trip here.
We catch a train back to Kraków and walk over to the pierogi place for lunch. Today we try the meat Pierogies with our cheese and potato favorite. We also try their beet soup which is not as flavorful as last nights but the Pierogies are still great. We go back to the apartment and ask at the reception what we should do with our key in the morning. He shows us a mailbox to put it in and starts asking how we like Kraków. We talk a little about vodka and he tells us of a nice and inexpensive vodka bar. He shows us on a map where it is, so now we have a pre dinner place to go. The young people here at the reception are so nice.
After relaxing for the rest of the afternoon, we head out in search of polish vodka. We find the Wodka Cafe Bar, and manage to get a small table. Quite an accomplishment as there are only about four tables in here, and then a short counter to stand at. It is a very small place. When I go up to ask about the kinds of vodka they have, he says they have over 150 vodkas. We should have found this place earlier! I get a flight of 6, and ask for one to bison grass vodka ( I had read about it and seen it in places) which is supposedly not legal in the U.S. although I do not know why. I also ask for hazelnut and then to pick me a nice variety.

I Can Do It

Testing my memory here, we try pineapple, spicy chile, hazelnut, bison grass, plum, and the memory bank has been erased. The shots are large and full. Everyone we try is good. While sitting in our vodka euphoria, we start a conversation with a young couple from Ireland. We enjoy chatting with Rachel and Stephen and exchange information. We could understand her accent much easier than his. When he spoke a little fast, he may have well been speaking Polish at times. More a commentary on my listening skills verse his speaking skills. Just when he was going to buy us a round, we had to leave for our dinner reservation. Bad timing for us. Maybe we will meet them one day in Ireland.
We walk from the vodka bar happier than when we went in and arrive just on time for our meal at Starka. Today, I try to ask Gabriel how he is doing in Polish. I must have done alright as he responds with more polish, I just don’t get. Basically he told me very well and how about me. We order another bottle,of wine and I ask Gabriel about the Zurek, a traditional sour rye soup, I have seen on menus, and whether I should try it.

Zurek

He says that is his favorite soup and together with the beet soup I had yesterday are the two most traditional polish soups. He also says that the Zurek is supposed,to be good for hangovers and when you see polish people having Zurek in the morning, it means they had a good night. Carol gets the Beet soup and I go for the Zurek. It is very good and has an egg in it as well as sausage. It does not taste overly sour, just yummy.
Our dinner is exactly the same as yesterday and just as good. Dessert is the Walnut cake they were out of yesterday. I think it may have some hazelnut liquor in it and is very tasty. It is another wonderful meal amidst a very nice ambience and a fitting way to end our stay in Kraków. I try something different and say have a great night to Gabriel in Polish when he says good bye in English. He gets a great big smile and says very good. We loved his personality and smile. Time to go back and get some sleep for our long train ride tomorrow. On our way home, I am able to exchange 100 leftover Zlotnys for 23 Euros with no commission and at the going rate. They even give me the .65 cents difference back in zlotnys. Good deal.
Expenses
Round Trip Train to Rynek 12 PLN
Wieliksza Salt Mine. 158 PLN
Pretzels 3.2 PLN
Pierogies and Beet Soup Lunch at Miod I Wino 35 PLN
Deodorant, Mousse at Market 23 PLN
Vodka At Vodka Cafe Bar. 6 Shots 24 PLN
Dinner, Bottle of Wine, Dessert at Starka 195 PLN
happy Guest Apartment 250 PLN
Walked 8 Miles