On to Olomouc

We sleep in past 0800 and Jiri has already left for work. We did say our goodbyes and thanks last night just in case this happened. We pack, get our plan for the day organized, and I figure out how much money we will need for our last two days in the Czech Republic. Debbie makes us a wonderful breakfast. Eggs, southern “Czech Biscuits”, sausage, fruit, jam, and coffee. It is scrumptious and very filling. She has bought us some chocolate covered wafers and water for our trip today and then gives Carol some bananas and apples. Debbie also saves us an ATM search by trading the amount of Czech money we need for U.S. Dollars. I must say that BNB Camr is the most full service BNB we have stayed at on our trip. I think our Croatian friends will have to step it up.
Debbie drives us to the nearby town of Cesky Brod where we will catch our train. We have about a 25 minute train ride to Kolin where we will connect to a train to Olomouc, our destination for today. Debbie drops us off with hugs all around and we are on our own again. We can not thank Jiri and Debbie enough for their kindness and hospitality. It really is one of the high points of our journey.
Our train is mostly on time but we have a 40 minute connection time so I do not care. We arrive in Kolin 10 minutes late and wait for our next train. While waiting we hear that the train that started in Budapest and runs through here is an hour late. We don’t know all the specifics but Hungary and Budapest is having problems because of illegal immigrants. While not an uncommon problem over here, they have decided to tackle it head on and this is causing train delays and disruptions in travel as they are trying to keep immigrant people from getting in and out of Hungary. Good for them for trying.

Apartman Olomouc

Our train is not effected and we depart on time. Our ride is just under two hours and I start to catch up on my blog entries. Time always goes fast when I write or maybe I just write slow so it seems that way. We arrive in Olomouc at 1345 and walk the half mile to our new home, Apartman Olomouc. We find it, ring the bell and are checked in by Michaela. The place is very large with a living room area, kitchen, and separate bedroom with room for four. No air conditioning here, but it is actually very cool today so we should be fine. We went from the 90’s to low 70’s in just one day. I like this temperature better. I did not even break a sweat walking to the apartment.
We do not spend time lounging around as I have read that the Archbishops Museum is free today and we want to take advantage of that. We head out and find it with no problem. The museum has only been opened for about 10 years and came about due to a request from Pope John Paul II. The Czech people here at the museum speak very limited English but have friendly attitudes and kindly point the way as we make our way through. We are in a former royal castle that became the home to Olomouc’s Archbishop. We start by seeing the Bishops guided coach both beautiful and ornate.

Jeweled Monstrance c.1650

Then we are guided into the treasury room which contains a monstrance made with 1800 diamonds and seven pounds of gold. There are other holy items and chalices as well. We then are sent upstairs where we must put on some big open backed slippers over our shoes. We shuffle through the staterooms of the castle polishing the ancient wood floors as we go. There are medieval paintings displayed along the way. Slippers off we are pointed to another area. We did not realize that the museum was so large. We enter the chapel side of the castle, with old frescoes on the walls, a cloister in the middles, Krivaks Wooden Pieta from 1390, more paintings and items on display and culminating in a very beautiful small chapel. I test out my singing voice in the chapel which has amazing acoustics but doesn’t make my singing sound any better. This was an excellent museum with good English text along the way and helpful guides to point you through the maze. We are happy we went.
Just next door to the museum is St Wenceslas Cathedral. This has been the resident church of Olomouc’s Archbishops since the ninth century.

St Wenceslas Ivory Alter

The church has a wonderful ivory Alterpiece and also contains the remains of Saint Jan Sarkander who was a priest that during the 1618 uprising was charged with treason, forced to reveal confessional secrets with torture and died as a result of torture in 1620. We also visit the crypt which contain many other relics and religious items, many of which are jewel encrusted.
We leave the church and walk toward the old town squares to find a place to eat. Along the way we pass the chapel of the aforementioned Jan Sarkander. We also see a sign for St Michaels church so decide to check it out. It has an unusual three domed ceiling which represents the Holy Trinity.

Three Domed Ceiling

We are also able to climb up the old bell tower and then into a cellar room which was an 11th century rock chapel.
By now we are pretty hungry and find our way into the lower square and to a restaurant. I get Svickova again, probably for the last time, and Carol goes with a chicken risotto. They are both good although the risotto is more like regular rice. Something strange happened here also as Carol does not get a beer, only tap water.
When we leave the restaurant, I realize that the square we were in is not the main square and what we thought was the plague monument was another monument.
We reach the main square and the largest plague monument in The Czech Republic. The tradition is that the monument gives thanks for surviving the plague. This one was started in 1716 and contains the Holy Trinity on top, the archangel Michael, Mary, Angels, three Christian virtues ( Faith, Hope, and Charity), and Saints near the bottom.
Also,in the square is Olomouc’s astronomical clock. Like the one in Prague, this was also mostly destroyed by the Nazis. It was rebuilt in 1953 by the communists who added chemists and workers instead of saints.

Astronomical Clock

Instead of the Apostles that Prague has, there is a proletariat parade with milk maids, clerks, blacksmiths, etc. for 6 minutes at noon everyday. Each month features a farm activity instead of zodiac and on the daily calendar, red bands have the birthdays of communist leaders.
Pretty tuckered from our day we walk back to our apartment and call it a night. It has been a great day and all our sights here were free.
Expenses
Train from Ceske Brod to Olomouc. 520 CZK
Apartman Olomouc 1312 CZK
Dinner and Beer at U Cerveneho Volka 296 CZK
Walked 5 Miles