Museums and Kazimierz

The 10 per cent chance of rain is running at 100 per cent right now. Nothing to do but put on the rain coats and head out. We see Margara in the office when we exit and I go to buy her a surprise. Carol talks to her and when I get back we present her with a bottle of wine. I really was impressed with her honesty and immediate phone call to her boss about the credit card mix up and thought it would be nice to reward it. She does not want to accept it, saying it was her that made the mistake but we insist. She is very thankful and I hope her bubbly personality and integrity takes her far in life. I also get in a good deed for my day.
As we cross the park near our place, we are temporarily held up by a large runners race. We are trying to locate the Wyspianski Museum which is one of a few museums that are free on Sundays. When we get to the square, the way is again blocked, and there are runners racing as well as gathered everywhere on the town hall side of the cloth hall. Not seeing a good way through, we decide to try the Gallery of 19th Century Polish Art, also free.

Kosciuszko by Jan Matejko

We enter and the first room has some very large paintings by a Polish artist named Jan Matjeko. One depicts Kosciuszko back in Poland fighting the Russians and winning at Rawclawice, the other shows the Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights swearing allegiance to the Polish King in 1525. The works are very nice.,there are many other beautiful works by many artists whose names we have never heard of. It is a very relaxed way to start our day. Before we leave, we go on the balcony that is shared by the cafe, and get some nice photos of the square, albeit a little stormy looking.
We go back outside and find a way through the ongoing race and festivities. Winding through streets we find the area where the Wyspianski Museum is supposed to be. We do not see it and walk into another museum to ask if they know where it is. He says the other side of the square. We look around and still do not see it so we ask a worker and he says he does not know of it but we can ask at the museum next door. Only they are closed, so we are back to square one in the Wyspianskiless square.
We give up and start to walk to the Bishop Ezram Palace. Along the way I see a tourist info place and ask them if they know where the Wyspianski Museum is. She googles it and says it is where we were. I got my information from Google also but it is obviously incorrect. Wyspianski is now the Ghost Museum.

Beautiful Carvings

We go into the Bishop Ezram Palace which is also free today. This museum has works from the 12th to 18th century and has an amazing collection of altarpieces, sculptures, paintings, and other church artifacts. It is very appealing to the eye but the lack of any English descriptions makes it difficult to know what some items are. We enjoy it none the less, and are glad we came in.
As we walk out, we pass by the Archdiocesan Museum, which is where Pope John Paul II lived for 10 years after WWII. Carol wants to go in and I am a bit museumed out so I decide to wait for her down the street. She tells me it was really nice. It gave her insight into the kind of person he was on the personal side. It showed the things he enjoyed to do such as hiking, skiing, backpacking, camping, and kayaking. It showed how he was a large part of the community and provided inspiration in the abolishment of communism.
We now wander across town to the Kazimierz District which is the old Jewish side of town. We get slightly off course and while doing a course correction come upon the Plac Nowy Square. It has now stopped raining and vendors are setting up in the square. I remember reading something about this place and as we walk around the square, my memory is jogged some more.

Zapiekanki Lunch

They have Zapiekanki stands and I had put a note to try one. Zapiekanki is a toasted baguette with cheese and other toppings in a large variety. We get one with sausage, tomato, onions, mushrooms, and cheese. Then some garlic sauce and spicy Arabic sauce to top it off. It is very good and filling for about 2 bucks. The Poles seem to love them as everybody around is eating one. We move on and find the Old Synagogue and pay to go in. It is a bit disappointing overall. Not nearly as informative as the synagogue museums we saw in Prague and little to none of the local history of the Jewish community. From the synagogue we walk around the area past the Old Jewish Cemetery and to the Isaac Synagogue. This was the private Synagogue of, you guessed it, Isaac. Isaac Jakubowicz was also known as Isaac the rich. He was the personal financier to the king back in the mid 1600s and so was able to have things and build things other Jews were not allowed. The story is more interesting than the inside. The only thing of interest indoors is that there are Jewish prayers on the walls designed for those who could not afford books. We leave and start to walk back to our apartment passing the New Jewish Cemetery along the way. Both the new and old cemeteries were vandalized by the nazis and have lost the intriguing aspect of feeling ancient as a result.
Back at the apartment we relax and try and decide where to eat. We pick a restaurant with good reviews on trip advisor and a little more upscale than what we have been doing.

Filet and Wine

It is back in the Jewish area and turns out to be worth the walk. Trezo is the perfect indoor setting on a mixed weather day like today. It is quiet and romantic. I go for a filet mignon meal and Carol decides on shrimp and a mixed salad. Instead of beer, we go with a nice bottle of red wine. They bring us a complimentary bruschetta which I think is our old friend lard, that we head in Czech Republic. It is good and made even better as they bring us a couple of free lemon vodka shots to wash it down with. The food arrives and there are two good size filets on my plate as well as mashed potatoes and bacon wrapped green beans. Carols shrimp looks tasty too. The food is cooked to perfection and we enjoy a wonderful meal that does not include pork. A pleasant change indeed. We both love pork but needed to shake things up at this point.
Our walk home helps to burn off some calories and aids in our digestion. It has been a wonderfully relaxing day and the rain and clouds did not stop us from seeing the town and sights.
Expenses
Morning Pastries 6 PLN
Wine Gift 14 PLN
Polish Pretzel 1.5 PLN
Pope John Paul House 5 PLN
Zapiekanki Lunch. 8 PLN
Old Synagogue 14 PLN
Isaac Synagogue 14 PLN
Dinner and Wine at Trezo. 194 PLN
Happy Guest Apartment 250 PLN
Walked 10 Miles