Tuesday April 25, 2023
Spoleto’s history dates back more than 2500 years when it was founded by the Huns. The first Roman settlement known as Spoletium, began in 241 B.C. The 4th Century brought S. Brizio, the first Bishop of Spoleto and it became an episcopal seat. Later it became a duchy during Lombard domination and then under the Holy Roman Empire. The Franks and the State of the Church fought over Spoleto with the latter prevailing in 1240. In 1809, the Papal States were annexed to France which created the Trasimeno department of which Spoleto was made its Capitol. Look it up folks.
This morning we head out fairly early as the forecast is for rain this afternoon. We walk uphill because the interesting sites in Italy are always up a hill, occasionally down a hill which you then have to walk back up, but almost never on flat level ground. We pass an arch with some beautiful wisteria (I think) hanging and must take a picture. We also pass the Fontana del Mascherone with the features of a man and a lion supposedly representing a pagan divinity. The fountains mouth pours into three levels. It dates back to 1600 with an inscription to Pope Clement XII above it.
We continue climbing to our destination. In the words of Sean Connery, Welcome to the Rock. Not Alcatraz, but Rocca Albornoziana, an imposing fortress built on a foundation of the Roman Acropolis. Located on the top of Mount Elia, it was built at the behest of Pope Innocent VI to militarily reinforce the authority of the Papacy, in the return of its siege to Italy from Avignon. Before we go in we get a nice view of Ponte delle Torri (Bridge of the Towers). This is a 14th century bridge that was built over the foundation of a Roman aqueduct which is supported by nine pylons. The bridge is about 775 feet long and almost 300 feet high and connected the Rocca with the small fortification tower on the other side. You used to be able to walk across it but unfortunately an earthquake in 2017 damaged it making it unsafe, and restoration work is still underway.
We go into the fortress and enter a courtyard which has a well in it. Looking into the well, I have to check the acoustics and they are amazing. The echo seems to go on forever and I am like a little kid, chanting and yodeling to listen to my echo. we get to climb to an arched second level which has remanants of amazing frescoes and views over the surrounding countryside. We also get to go into the Museum in the fortress which has art dating back to the 1300s most of it religious as this was used by the Popes and served as a seat for the Pontifical Governors. There are Saintly relics, intricately carved sarcophagus’s (one for the Blessed Gregorio), and a Holy Crapper. It is all very interesting and we enjoy our visit.
On our way to our next stop, we see some kind of ceremony for what we think are public servants. The police are wearing some funky hats with blue and red feathers on them. Not sure what the significance is. We reach Casa Romei or Roman House which is from the 1st century A.D. and believed to be the house of Vespasian Polla, mother of Emporer Vespasian, who was responsible for building the Roman Colisseum. It has some mosaic floors, an atrium, and not much else and we go through it pretty quick. Onward we go to the Roman Theatre and archeological Museum. The theatre dates back to the 1st century B.C. and has a few tunnels you can explore. The museum is fairly small with a few interesting artifacts. By now we are hungry and we end up in Piazza del Mercato which was once the site of the Roman Forum. Carol and I get a Porchetta Sandwich from a small shop. Dave and Gwen go to have a sit down lunch. When we finish our sandwich, we get some Gelato and one of the flavors we both get is a Rum Chocolate. It is amazing or maybe it is the rum talking.
We stroll around and check out an open church San Gregorio di Maggiore. Completed in 1146, you can still see traces of an older church it was built on, in its crypt. It is a really cool old church. We make it back to our hotel to rest and freshen up before our special dinner tonight. We have chosen to try a Michelin restaurant that has a set menu. I made reservations yesterday when we tried to get in but were turned away as they were full. It is a short walk to dinner and our meal includes an appetizer(soft cheese with truffle sauce), plus another appetizer they give us on the house, strangozzi pasta with grated truffle, pork with orange sauce, soft chocolate cake with pumpkin sauce for dessert, coffee, water, and two glasses of wine. It is an amazing meal and is only 40 Euros a piece, which is quite the bargain for what we got. It is a great way to end our short time in Spoleto which is a town we have really enjoyed. Great introduction to Umbria. Expenses Porchetta Sandwich Lunch at La Bottega 16E Gelato at Gelateria Crispini 5.60E cash excellent rum chocolate Dinner at Il Tempio del Gusto 80E Michelin Excellent Aurora Boutique Hotel 70.96E Walked 7.4 Miles
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