Verona, Veneto, Italy, Saturday, September 8, 2012

Don’t Tell Carol

Breakfast today is self serve, a small selection of meats, cheese, a torte which is very good, and coffee, hot chocolate, or juice. We slept in a little this morning although our bodies do not seem to want to let us to sleep late.
Our adventure today starts off with Juliet’s courtyard, statue, and balcony. No one has proved that this is the place Shakespeare wrote about, but then no one has disproved it either. Each year over 2000 Japanese tours take an hour stop here to see this spot. We go early as I do not know how to say get out of my picture please, in Japanese.
First order of business is for me to rub the breast of Juliet. It is said to bring you happiness in your love life. Who am I to argue or turn down some additional happy love!

Where For Art Thou Charlie

We get into Juliet’s house for free with our card so we visit it. They have some props from a Romeo and Juliet movie and Carol gets to stand on the Balcony while what light from yonder breaks, and her Romeo snaps a few pictures. They have computer terminals where you can write to Juliet asking for love and there is graffiti over every wall by the courtyard with love requests. Quite a scene!
We escape together in love and head through Piazza Erbe and it’s market to the quieter Piazza dei Signori. There is a whales rib hanging from days gone by, below the arch as you enter the piazza. We now get to work off yesterday’s gelato by climbing the Torre dei Lamberti. It is only 386 steps to the top. It is the highest tower in Verona built in the twelfth century with additions throughout the ages. The views are great from the top.

Dante

Back on level ground we survey the piazza. All the buildings are connected by arches and a statue of Dante stares down at you in the center. Around the corner we see the Scaligeri family tombs. They were the local powerful ruling family in Veronas heyday and changed the law so they could be buried in town. When they took over they destroyed all other towers and forbade any other than their own from being built. The tombs are interesting and very large. Canagrande, the one who built the families power, has his tomb on the adjacent chapel. The tallest tomb was erected by the family member who lost most of the power that his ancestors had gained, but wanted to make himself look like the big shot and look down upon his ancestors.
Up the street we head to see the church of St Anastasia. But alas, it is not to be as there is a wedding going on. All we can do is continue our walk and cross the river to see the old Roman Theatre. Like the arena, they still hold small concerts and events here. The attached museum has some interesting ancient pieces and views as we climb up inside and out during our visit. Several exhibits are in monastic cells which I believe was used by the monks of San Jerome as the convent of San Jerome is attached.

Titians Assumption of the Virgin

Moving along on our journey through Roman and church history, we cross the river and visit the Duomo. Built in the 12th century on top of St Elena church from the 10th century, which when they found 4th century roman mosaic floors, discovered St Elena had been built on a Roman church. There is a Titian painting, Assumption of the Virgin, on the dome. We also notice that Saint Zeno has been moved here for viewing today.

                                                                          

Hunchback Stoup

We now think we might be able to see St. Anastasia church so head back that way. It is the largest church in Verona and was designed by two Dominican friars in 1290. This is an example of Italian gothic architecture and contains many masterpiece works of art and sculptures. We found the holy water stoups being held up by a hunchback to be quite interesting. Superstition was that touching their hump would bring you good luck ,so touch it we do. The other stoup is held up by a sculpture from 1591. It is truly a beautiful church and it must be special to be wed here.
On our way back home, we decide to make one last stop at the Church of San Fermo. Saints Fermo and Rustico were tortured to death in 304. Sometime in the 400’s a church was built to honor them. In 765, the bishop of Verona, recovered the remains of the martyrs and placed them in the church. The church was demolished around 1065 and the current church built to conserve the relics. This church is also well adorned with art and sculpture dating back to the early 1300s.

Church Below St. Fermo

What we found fascinating is that you could go down below the church into the lower church and see the older frescoes and foundations dating back to 765 time frame. Our pilgrimage for the day has ended and we cut across town to the more worldly pilgrimage of the Pizza Doge. A different vegetarian pizza with zucchini and ricotta cheese, and a panzerotti with prosciutto, artichoke hearts, and mozzarella. It was amazing once again. We want to bring the Pizza Doge home with us.
We get to enjoy a little Italian siesta before we head out to dinner. While strolling to San Fermo, we ran across a restaurant that was doing a brisk business and the food we saw looked good. We checked out the menu, very reasonable prices, and made a reservation for 7:30. When we leave our room, the piazza up the street is crawling with people. Some kind of event at the arena and the normal evening stroll has the place packed. We head down a side street to a less crowded avenue to walk down.

Mangia

For dinner we have gnocchi with a pesto sauce, and amatriciana which has Italian pancetta in the sauce. We had the amatriciana in Rome last time and I loved it. We also order a large salad with shrimp, potato, lettuce, and other goodies. Bottle of white wine completes the meal. Everything is excellent, sitting outside on a quiet street, just soaking up the atmosphere. We take a different street back and call it a night. Still trying to get used to the Italian cannot eat to seven or seven thirty thing. Meals here are not rushed so it is usually an hour or more to eat, another half hour to get your check, walk back, and it is almost ten before you know it. We may have to adjust the early rise system.
CNC
“A Journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step” – Lao

Expenses
7.90E- Pizza Doge
34.90E- Dinner, salad , bottle of wine at Ostregheteria Sottoriva 23
75E-BNB Citadella

Miles Walked – 9 Miles